Rostov is a small wine region in terms of production but makes up for it in quality. It has a long history of winemaking, and it’s home to some of Russia’s best wines.
I’ve written about this in the past (one of my most popular articles), and I thought you might like to see why.
Here are some facts: The region is approximately 30 miles from the city center of Rostov-on-Don, an area known as the “Black Country” for its dark earth.
The town itself is considered by many to be the birthplace of Russian winemaking culture, as it was here that Russian settlers first learned how to make wine in the late 19th century.
Phylloxera’s impact
Back in Russia’s days of tsars and czars, the Crimea was known for its vineyards. When phylloxera hit, however, that dream was over: no grape or berry crop could be grown in the Crimean steppe. So what else could the region do to earn money?
In 1853, the Russian government planted an apple orchard along a river in Rostov. At that time, there were more than 13 million trees spaced out on nearly 1 million acres of land. In today’s world, this would be like planting an entire city from scratch! Such is the scale of these massive trees that you can’t even see any buildings from a bird’s eye view.
This fruit grew so well that when phylloxera struck again in Ukraine during World War I and America cut off trade with Russia, it only took two years for fruit production to resume—and Rostov learned how important it was to switch back to wine growing as a way of earning money.
Production techniques
What can you expect from Rostov’s wineries? A great wine-tasting experience! You’ll find winemakers using traditional production techniques as well as more innovative methods. But the best wineries in Rostov have modern facilities that compare favourably with those in Europe.
Climate
You’ve probably heard that the soil and climate are both important in determining a region’s wine quality—and it’s true. The Black Sea climate is warm, humid and characterized by the cool sea breezes that come up from the water. These conditions produce grapes with thin skins, which have more complex flavors. Also, vineyards near the Black Sea contain deep soils with a high sand content; sandy soil allows drainage while also retaining heat, making the vines grow long roots that take up minerals and enhance grape flavor.
Grape varieties
- Saperavi – The most famous red grape variety of the republic.
- Cabernet Sauvignon – One of the most popular wines in the world.
- Aligote – A white variety that is also popular in France, where it is used for sparkling wine production along with Chardonnay grapes.
- Rkatsiteli – A white dry wine grape.
- Muscat – This well-known white grape produces very sweet and fragrant wines that can be made as a dessert or aperitif varieties; it also has a lesser known red type.
Appellations in Rostov
Rostov is a region known for its wine, and that’s because the appellations reflect both what the area can produce and what it cannot. It’s a warm climate with dry summers so grapes are not typically at their best here, but they can be quite tasty when they are. It’s also close to the Caspian Sea so you get some maritime influences as well. The wine names also help to create an identity for the region in your mind: there will always be “zhenskaya ryabaya” or “rassolnyonnyi” somewhere in the region.
Now, the wines have varying quality levels and are not created equally; some of them can be quite good while others are more conventional rather than unique (as one would expect from wine from Russia). Some of them stand out more than others due to their names or varietals being interesting (for example, a red blend made from vidal blanc and grenache called “Budonaisky”). I was particularly impressed by an organic white blend made from pinot noir that had a lovely fruitiness about it and was relatively easy on its wallet. Don’t be afraid of trying reds either; if you like rosé then try one made from pinot noir with a touch of cabernet sauvignon called “Taman”. And if you’re visiting Russia then look out for wines made on estates: Russian wineries tend to place high importance on this aspect since it’s an important way of distinguishing themselves (less emphasis is placed on quality over quantity). In wintertime you’ll also find something called “kumys” which is similar to hot mulled wine served at Christmas parties in Europe – that’s another great opportunity to taste traditional Russian wines alongside other popular drinks such as beer, borscht or kvas…
High-quality wines from Rostov
There are a number of high-quality wines from Rostov, but these three stood out to me:
- Don Premium Brut Nature
- Abrau Durso Prestige Collection Brut Aligoté
- Massandra Chateau Grinzadzhyi Rkatsiteli Krasnostop Zolotovsky Reserve 2006
All three wines showed great precision in the vineyard and winery with nice fruit and detailed structure. They were all made with quality grapes and production techniques that showcased the winemakers’ ability to control the process through fermentation, blending and aging.
Excellent wineries producing some very good wines
Rostov is one of the most technically advanced wine regions in Russia. It has had a long history of winemaking, and its soils have proven to be well-suited for growing grapes. Rostov is also known for its apple orchards—apples are grown on 97 percent of farms in the region. There are five large wineries in Rostov (there used to be more), and they produce some very good wines.