Hungary is one of the world’s oldest wine producing countries, having been a major player in the wine trade as long ago as the Middle Ages. It also boasts one of the world’s largest cellars, and Budapest is a wine trading center that has been in operation for centuries.
80 appellations (tőkés, tanya, hegy, szektánói)
Hungary, like most wine countries, has its own appellation system. It exists to protect the region’s wines and to ensure that they are recognized worldwide. Appellations are geographical indications regulated by the Hungarian government (like Italy’s DOC or Spain’s DO). The size of a Hungarian appellation is usually 100 square kilometers. A region is defined by its climate, soil and the historical traditions of winemaking in the area: an appellation can be a town (tőkés), a village (tanya) or a hillside vineyard (hegy). Its name can also reflect which grape varieties grow there (szektánói). The system was created in 1989 and is based on France’s famously strict AOC system.
Tokaj-Hegyalja is the most famous wine region of Hungary. The great fame is due to the sweet and spicy Tokaj wines.
Eger is the second largest wine region of Hungary and also has a unique position in terms of its geography and winemaking traditions. Eger sits on volcanic basalt, which gives it its warm climate, whereas all other Hungarian wine regions are located on limestone or have a cool continental climate. This allows for a few very early harvests in some areas, which produce the country’s earliest dry whites. The area is best known for its Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood), an indigenous red blend that varies from vintage to vintage depending on what grapes are available, but always has Kadarka as a base.
Grape varieties
Merlot is the most planted red variety in Hungary, with around 40% of the region’s vineyards planted to this wine. The first thing that strikes you when looking at its most important variety, Kadarka, is how similar it looks to Merlot. In fact, Merlot was originally bred from Kadarka, which has a deep purple hue. This grape is also quite easy to grow, making it perfect for small-scale production and low-quality wines. But it doesn’t stop there: Merlot’s distinctive aroma and flavour are also reminiscent of Kadarka. Although many people like Merlot because of its easy growing conditions and relatively cheap price compared with other varieties, this wine often disappoints due to its lack of distinction and quality control – however much you pour into a glass, the colour and taste will remain dully the same throughout your tasting session.
Furmint is the main white variety followed by Hárslevelű and Sárgamuskotály. The whites are usually dry but there are also sweet varieties made from botrytized grapes in some of these regions.
Wine history in Upper Hungary
In 1990, the appellation system was reformed to follow French AOC regulations. Four years later, the concept of single-estate wines was introduced to Hungary. These were a new concept for Hungarian wine and they quickly became a hit.
The increase in quality has been remarkable since 1990. In the past decade, wine production in Hungary has increased by 75% – mostly due to wineries figuring out how to make better use of their considerable potential. We have seen a number of quality producers emerge, who have managed to increase both quantity and quality.
Hungarian wine revival
In the last few decades, Hungary has undergone a wine revolution and is now producing wines of international quality and reputation. Hungarian wines are sold all over the world and frequently win awards. The country’s best labels have been recognized as equal to top French and Italian wines in blind tastings by respected critics.
When people think of Hungarian wine, they usually think of sweet Tokaji Aszu, but dry white wines made from Furmint or Hárslevelű grapes are very popular in Hungary. Red wines based on Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch) or Blauburger grapes are also excellent and popular with locals.